© Marc Hoscheid
Behind Luxembourg's grape harvest are the stories of cross-border retirees, long-time pickers, and newcomers from abroad, who return each year for the camaraderie and tradition despite labour shortages in the sector.
As it has become increasingly difficult to find local workers willing to take on the task, it has long been a tradition for seasonal labourers from abroad, the so-called "autumn workers", to come to Luxembourg each year.
Last week, while the Moselle valley was still shrouded in mist, teams were already busy between Remich and Bech-Kleinmaacher. Among them were three men from the French border area working for winemaker Josy Gloden, carefully separating out grapes that were less suitable.
For years, Vinsmoselle cooperative president Gloden has relied mainly on workers from France, for both practical and interpersonal reasons. He stressed that anyone brought in to harvest must be properly respected, which includes ensuring decent accommodation rather than leaving them to sleep in cars or caravans. With cross-border workers, he explained, this challenge is easier to manage in comparison with workers from Eastern Europe, and his team has been made up of the same trusted people for years.
Coming in from neighbouring countries, but also as far as Eastern Europe
Clément (73) has been helping with the harvest for 13 years. A retired welder, he recalled how it began: he once answered a call for volunteers and thought he would only do it for a year, but the good atmosphere kept him coming back.
Philippe (65) has an even longer connection, having first worked for Gloden's father in 1998. A construction worker by trade, he enjoys meeting new people during the harvest and has even persuaded relatives to join, though not everyone sticks with it, he added.
Ania (29), originally from northern Poland, represents the newer generation of foreign workers. She stated that after stints in Norway and England, she came to Luxembourg thanks to her uncle and started in the cellar at Wellenstein, initially driving a forklift for five weeks during harvest.
She added that she enjoyed the family-like atmosphere so much that she asked to stay on and has now been working there for six years. Unlike her previous jobs, this one gave her a direct link to wine production, something she finds fascinating and hopes to pursue long-term, she said.
Shortage of seasonal workers persists
Still, many winemakers say it is becoming harder to find seasonal workers, even from abroad. Increasingly, labourers are being brought in from countries such as Romania, where wages remain significantly lower than in Luxembourg.
At the presentation of this year's harvest report, Minister of Agriculture, Food, and Viticulture Martine Hansen announced that, starting next year, the work of seasonal grape pickers will benefit from a reduced tax rate of just 3 percent for a full month, rather than only 18 days as before.
