From 1 September, EU salons must replace nail polishes containing the chemical Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide (TPO), which was banned as a precaution over health risks.
The new restriction applies to varnishes containing TPO, often found in gels and semi-permanent polishes that need to be cured under UV light. The EU decided to ban the chemical because of potential health risks, including a possible link to cancer. But what impact does this have on salons in Luxembourg, and how have they adapted?
Major financial burden for precautionary measure
For many people, visiting a nail salon is part of their weekly routine. Gel and semi-permanent polishes have grown increasingly popular because they last longer, but these products often contained TPO, which EU regulators now classify as potentially carcinogenic and possibly harmful to fertility. Officials stress that the move is a precautionary measure, as the risks only appear in very high concentrations during laboratory studies.
Alexa Ballmann, Vice-President of the Artisan Federation, explained that the EU applies a strict precautionary principle. She said that the studies were based on high concentrations, while in nail polish the levels were usually between one and five percent. Once the polish was cured, less than one percent remained on the nail surface, sometimes as little as 0.01 percent, Ballmann emphasised.
From last week, however, salons are no longer allowed to use or sell polishes containing TPO. This also means they must replace their existing stock, which can represent a major financial burden.
Ballmann pointed out that a single salon can easily build up hundreds of shades to satisfy customer demand for variety and seasonal colours. She gave the example of a salon holding 300 colours, with each bottle costing around €30. That alone represents a potential loss of €9,000 if the stock has to be written off.
Although the decision to ban TPO was taken in May, Ballmann laments that they were not properly informed. Much depended on suppliers: some brands prepared for the ban early, while others lagged behind.
Plenty of TPO-free alternatives
One salon in Kirchberg managed to adapt in time, gradually reducing its orders from May onwards and switching to reformulated, TPO-free products. Salon manager Cindy Meur said they had only a handful of products containing TPO, which were phased out over the summer. By September they were fully compliant, having thrown away a few dozen bottles and updated their range with safe alternatives, she said.
According to Ballmann, suppliers are obliged to take back and refund any TPO-containing polishes sold after 12 May. For clients, meanwhile, little will change: the market already offers plenty of TPO-free alternatives, so colourful nails remain very much in fashion, just with safer formulas.
