Luxembourg's Bretzelsonndeg – the way to the heart is through the stomach

Tiny country, big traditions! Bretzelsonndeg (Pretzel Sunday) takes place once a year on the fourth Sunday in Lent, which falls on 30 March this year. Whereas the pretzel used to be a salty treat (and still is in our neighbouring countries), the modern Luxembourgish version is usually toothachingly sweet, complete with fondant icing and almonds.

According to some romantic souls, the puff pastry symbolises two lovers arm in arm. According to some slightly less romantic historians, it used to be a symbol of human sacrifice to a Celtic deity. More on that later.

Feel the heat? Get her the sweet! Or him, if it's a leap year!

The traditional version of the custom dictates that a man should offer a pretzel to the woman he's interested in. If she finds him nearly as sweet as the pretzel, she will let him know by giving him an egg on Easter Day. We’ll let you interpret the symbolism.

If she is not interested in the poor chap, she will give him a basket instead of the egg. Fun fact for both locals and expats who are brave enough to learn Luxembourgish: this is where the classic expression "de Kuerf kréien" (literally: to receive the basket) comes from.

The tradition is reversed in leap years! So pay attention girls because in 2028 it's your turn again!

However, as any cultural anthropologist worth his or her salt will assure you, traditions are constantly evolving. The respective gender of giver and receiver plays less of a role today. In other words: just get out there and secure a pretzel for your significant other!

In Luxembourg, the tradition allegedly kicked off in the 18th century. During Buergbrennen, women threw wood into the flames while calling out their would-be lover's name. If the trick worked its magic, the women would later receive a pretzel and eventually return an egg on Easter Day. Another pretzel custom that has been lost over the years involves newly-wed couples. On Bretzelsondeg, they had to give a pretzel to the guests who had managed to get hold of a piece of the wedding garter.

Up until the 20th century, the custom was primarily observed in villages along the Moselle and Sure rivers but it has long conquered the rest of the Grand Duchy. If you're free on Sunday, you may want to head to Luxembourg City, where Bretzelsondeg is always celebrated in style. Expect live music, the iconic Jhangeli tourist train and, most importantly, free pretzels.

The pretzel – a mystery of history?

The historical origin of the pretzel remains unclear and various unreliable versions exist. One source for example claims that an Italian monk invented them to reward children who learned their prayers. In this legend, the shape of the pretzel represents arms crossed in prayer to the Trinity.

However, most historians agree that the pretzel actually predates Christianity. A common explanation is that the pretzel used to symbolize human sacrifice to the Celtic deity Sirona. The three holes in the pastry stand for the three-part noose that pagans used to kill three people by hanging during the sacrificial ceremony.

© Statue of Sirona in Hochscheid, Germany.

But as with many traditions, Bretzelsonndeg changed over time. In this article, we'll take a closer look at two of these changes.