Caro triesPublic House – an institution in the making

Carolina Reinertz
Public House is softening the edges of fine dining. The idea isn't to take anything away from the quality, but to shift the experience around it, focusing on making it more accessible, price-wise.
© Carolina Reinertz

I always thought that Public House probably had one of the most beautiful restaurant interiors in the city. Not only that, the restaurant sits within the walls of the Casino: a contemporary art centre, so essentially you’re eating inside a piece of culture. So I was very curious (and excited) to hear that Public House – a place I always saw as more of a special-occasion dinner – decided to shift their concept.

The restaurant opened in 2023 with Anne Knepper, Davide Sorvillo, and Matthias Hameeu (the latter two also behind Bonne Nouvelle), after the opportunity came up to take over the space inside the Casino. The initial idea wasn’t necessarily fine dining, but the menu naturally leaned that way; something that was ‘officially’ crowned when Anne was named ‘Jeune Chef de l’Année 2025' by Gault & Millau.

They started as a pop-up. It worked. The contract got extended.

Three years in, they decided: time to switch things up.

The food

© Carolina Reinertz

Anne described it as a neo-brasserie. Which, in simple terms, means taking the classic brasserie concept and giving it a more modern twist. Out with the rigid format, in with something more fluid, a bit more current.

You can come in for dinner. Or just a drink. Or a cocktail and a few plates. There’s no real separation.

Nothing is forced on you. No strict framework, no obligation to go all in on a set menu that quickly escalates. The menu is seasonal and regional. Very much “back to the roots (literally)”, as Anne puts it. They work with local producers like Les Paniers de Sandrine and the cooperative TERRA, focusing on what’s available, rather than flying things in from the other side of the world.

Right now, the menu is in-between seasons, so it’s a bit of a transition moment.

I tried a mix of things.

© Carolina Reinertz

From your not-so-typical snack – Bone marrow & grilled sourdough (€12) which was indulgent and an experience in itself, to the Homemade pâté and pickles (€14). Not something I’d usually go for, but this one was so smooth, full of flavour, and actually made me like pâté…

For starters, the blood sausage, beetroot, apple (€16) was smoky, juicy, and surprisingly good if, like me, you’re usually a bit hesitant when it comes to something that sounds this meaty, but is essentially just a very intense, flavour-packed dish.

Veggie-wise, I tasted the Jerusalem artichoke, hazelnut, mizuna (€16) a nicely nutty combo that works well with the root vegetable. Also the Celeriac with XO sauce, yeast (€14), the sauce was super umami on this one!

One of my favourites: the Pike perch, ponzu, radish, buckwheat (€16) – very fresh, slightly tangy, and delicate.

Some of the mains on the card include:

  • Luxembourgish beef tartare (€19) – a classic done well
  • Pumpkin, smoked sauce, fermented chilli (€18)
  • Or a côte à l’os to share (800g, €52) with chimichurri

You can also get some of the classic sides: roasted vegetables or fries (€4)

The extras

Now for the sweet tooths out there – dessert:

The Fresh-out-the-oven cookie with tonka ice cream (€10) is proof that hot and cold can work together… at least in dessert form. Very mouthwatering. And then there was the dangerously comforting Riz au lait (€9), simple and nostalgic, perfectly gooey.

Final thoughts

Public House has redefined itself. Less ‘fine dining that you plan weeks ahead’. More ‘good food, good wine, come as you are’.

© Carolina Reinertz

Less structure, less pressure, no obligation to commit to a full menu. You can come in for dinner, or just a drink, or something in between. No separation. No categories. Just a place that works for both.

It’s about keeping the level high, but making the whole thing feel easier, more fluid, and more in tune with how people actually want to go out.

And a small but meaningful detail Anne shared with me – the new logo. A renaissance-style lion – and if you look closely, the tail splits in two, just like the Roude Léiw (Luxembourg’s lion symbol). A little heritage, subtly sprinkled in.

Food quality: 5/5
Family-friendly: 4/5
Budget-friendly: 4/5
Date-friendly: 5/5
Veggie-friendly: 4/5 (depending on season)

Carolina Reinertz, former RTL Today editor turned contributor, is testing every hotspot in Luxembourg with honest reviews on whether a place is date-friendly, budget-friendly, or worth the hype – so you can spend your money wisely.

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