The rumour mill is in full swing as the time for new Michelin awards approaches. Nearly a month after the French ceremony, Luxembourg’s chefs will soon find out whether they have impressed the inspectors operating across Belgium and Luxembourg. Among the top contenders, who might soon be celebrating a new star? RTL Infos takes a closer look.
The Restaurant Léa Linster in Frisange is frequently mentioned when it comes to predictions. Louis Linster, who took over from his mother in the kitchen eight years ago, has successfully maintained the star the restaurant first earned in 1987. After being named Chef of the Year 2024 by Gault&Millau, Linster could now be on the cusp of a second star.
Linster has openly said that he has been working towards this goal for two years. He explained that many improvements had been made to ensure a flawless experience for guests. In his view, given the tough nature of the profession, recognition is vital, providing motivation not just for himself but also for young chefs. Although customers often praise their meals, receiving a formal award and standing on stage, he said, is something quite different.
Over in Roeser, Roberto Fani, chef at Ristorante FANI, still dreams of a second Michelin star, having earned his first in 2017. He said his team is ready for it, stressing that it is only natural – even vital – to aim for growth. However, he admitted it might be tougher for his restaurant, as it had previously been a pizzeria. They had invested heavily in staffing, employing ten people plus the dishwashing team – a significant workforce for a restaurant of its size. He hopes the Michelin Guide will recognise their efforts. Nevertheless, Fani said he would remain calm: if nothing came of it, they would open for lunch on Tuesday with the same smile and motivation. Awards, he remarked, do not always come as quickly as one would like.
Meanwhile, Clovis Degrave of Grünewald Chef’s Table in Dommeldange also has Michelin ambitions. Together with his partner, Aline Bourscheid, with whom he also manages Maison B and Hostellerie du Grünewald, he regularly attends the Michelin ceremony in Belgium. He explained that discussions about stars are part of daily conversations among chefs, but many had waited years for their moment. He emphasised that he was already proud of the experience they offer to their guests. Degrave also said he was rooting for Linster to earn his second star and hoped all current star holders in Luxembourg would retain theirs, pointing out that a vibrant dining scene benefits everyone.
Newcomers Archibald De Prince and his partner Rachel, who opened their hotel-restaurant in Lauterborn just six months ago, are awaiting the outcome with a relaxed attitude. De Prince said their goal was to secure a star within three years, and any earlier recognition would be a huge joy. Rachel added that they were keeping their feet firmly on the ground, noting that many longer-established restaurants were equally, if not more, deserving of a star.
Although their establishment is new, De Prince himself is no stranger to high-level gastronomy, having worked for eight years as René Mathieu’s sous-chef at La Distillerie in Bourglinster and recently winning the Bocuse d’Or Belgium in late 2023. He hinted that Michelin inspectors had already visited.
The question of whether Michelin stars are a blessing or a burden remains open. For Degrave, the answer is clear: stars bring pressure. Without a star, he explained, there is less stress as there is nothing to lose. But once a star is earned, the temptation is there to chase a second, adding further pressure, according to Degrave. Nevertheless, he said chefs should not focus on the fear of losing a star but instead concentrate on maintaining and improving their craft – after all, great cuisine does not necessarily require stars, it depends on the quality of the products.
Linster, however, sees a second star as liberating. He suggested that having only one star can lead chefs to shy away from extravagant or costly ideas to avoid alienating guests. With two stars, he believes, there is greater creative freedom. Yet he also acknowledged that the stakes are higher once a second star is achieved.
Fani saw no downside at all, as he stated that higher expectations from customers were simply an incentive to do even better, describing the pressure as positive.
De Prince took a more pragmatic view. He said a Michelin star was largely positive, notably boosting business figures, but cautioned that it could become a burden if a restaurant was not truly ready for it.
Given that the inspectors’ reports are decisive, the presence or absence of a Michelin visit can weigh heavily on chefs’ minds. Linster said sometimes he recognised the inspectors, but often he did not – noting that on a few occasions they had revealed themselves by handing over their business card after a meal, particularly when they knew they would not return. The first time it happened, he said, he had simply thought they were regular customers.
Degrave admitted he preferred not to know when inspectors were present, believing that awareness would only cause unnecessary anxiety. He pointed out that, with so many guests, it was nearly impossible to spot them, as they do not exactly sit there with a notepad in hand.
Fani took a relaxed approach, saying he had confidence in the level of quality they had built over nine years and believed they were firmly aligned with their culinary philosophy. De Prince noted that inspectors had visited at least three times already, though their criteria remain unknown.
While not yet confirmed, it seems almost inevitable that René Mathieu, who left La Distillerie at Bourglinster to open Fields at Findel earlier this year, will regain his Michelin star and green star for sustainable gastronomy.
There is also growing speculation that Cyril Molard, whose restaurant Ma Langue Sourit in Moutfort currently holds Luxembourg’s only two-star status, could soon be awarded a third.
All will be revealed in Antwerp on Monday morning, when the Michelin Guide’s new stars are finally announced – and the accuracy of these predictions will be put to the test.
