It is customary to love-hate Schueberfouer. This much was made clear to me from the first time I encountered our historical fair that dominates evening plans and commands the attention of Luxembourg for a few weeks every year.

First it was the Luxembourgish friends who lamented about unwinnable games, expensive rides, bustling crowds and perhaps above all, the fact that you will undoubtedly run into someone you know: an ex, a colleague, a childhood friend, or your local mayor. They would diligently attend nonetheless. 

"I hate going”, a friend might moan, and in the same breath, "so, shall we go next Wednesday?"

And then it was the repeated, obsessive visits I found myself making. Like a fly to the light, I simply could not stop. 

As a fairly new resident of Luxembourg, it seemed a quick and easy way to integrate and feel like I was part of society. Ever the ambitious newcomer and a diligent student, I had almost perfect attendance in the first week this year. Unlike many who complain of prices (a fair point and valid concern should you choose to fully participate in a sit-down fish dinner, rides, and cocktails) I have a very simple, stripped-down Schueberfouer strategy. Peoplewatch over a pint or two, indulge in Gromperekichelcher for dinner or a snack, and watch the rides tunnel around me, with no expense (or concerns of nausea) to contend with. That comes up to a night out for less than 20 euros and more amusement and stimuli than is generally recommended. Low risk, low reward. Perfect. 

Except of course it isn’t that simple at all: take last Tuesday for example. I entered the fair grounds feeling all was right with the world. I was with my friends. The weather was perfect. I had time. Everyone around me was happy. Then I got in line for some food. While enjoying the cool breeze and the delighted shrieks of children and ride-goers, two people blatantly cut in front of me! But such was my good temperament that I didn’t even mind. As mentioned, I had time, and it didn’t matter one way or another. 

Alas, all restored good vibes and smug generosity disappeared moments later when it was my turn to step up to place my order, and the two people behind me elbowed me out of the way! What luck: boxed in by bad manners on all sides. "Shame we’re not all blessed with grace and manners", I sulked to myself, nose raised ever so slightly. 

But settling in a corner with a beer, the transgressions of my fellow festival-goers were quickly forgotten as I smiled at all the animated gatherings of families and friends around me. "What a beautiful tradition, and how special it is to be part of something as iconic and historic as the Schueberfouer" I thought to myself. "I am but one in millions, from centuries past and many more to come."

Then a large man shouldered me out of the way to get past, never mind the fact that there was plenty of room in every other possible route. "That really wasn’t necessary", I hotly protested, but he was long gone with his bevvy of beered-up boys. 

"No matter, walk it off", I thought, and continued my perambulations through the rows of bright lights and games, mettwurst, and burgers. 

Stopping for a second to take it all in, it’s impossible to deny that there is so much fun and life in the air: friends wave as they shuttle past in a ride that spins you about it in more ways than I thought possible. Around me, there is camaraderie and glee: a family shares the most gigantic pink cloud of candy floss I’ve ever seen, couples share kisses, colleagues clink glasses. 

Towing overhead a 60m high ride looms: from here all you can see are pairs of legs waggling in nervous anticipation: the drop is inevitable and adrenaline is building. 

All moments of such fleeting joy come to an end as quickly as they start – but such is the nature of the Schubi. Whether you’re screaming your lungs out up in the air, or observing the world around you right here on the ground, rollercoasters are everywhere: above you, around you, and through bouts of annoyance and happiness, impatience and bliss, peaking and plummeting continuously as you make your way through the grounds, within you. 

What else is there to do but buckle up and enjoy the ride?