How to make old-fashioned butter in a modern kitchen

The block of butter is cold to the touch as I unwrap it. A smooth texture and pale yellow hue are defining factors of quality. I cut off a slice, and then another. I plop them into the bowl of flour and sugar. Pressing a fork on top of the butter I mix it into the powder. Like all pastry dough, there comes a moment when the butter has turned from cold to cool, and a baker needs to use their hands.  
 
While I mix the dough, I am reminded of the story of an Englishman traveling from Longwy to Luxembourg. It was recorded in the book, “Letters Written from the Continent, during a six weeks tour in 1818”. Jonathan Gray and his companions crossed the border into Luxembourg.

They stopped at a 'public house' only 9 miles from the border. They entered the building, found the landlady, and requested bread with 'beurre fraiche'. The landlady left and when she returned they were given bread with beer. Gray endeavored to correct the food order.

After a few minutes of communication, the landlady stated, “O, yah, fresh butter” in Luxembourgish. The customers were surprised the landlady didn’t understand French being so close to the border. Gray also explained, that in Luxembourg they pronounce the /u/ the “broad way” as they do in Cumberland.  
 
“She was speaking German, which is the language of this country; they know very little of the French. Her butter was better than any we had in France, where it is often strong and bad, it is always without any salt…the signs in this country are all in German, and written in German text…” 

Cows grassing on grass and clover under apple trees: 

Most European nations have a history of making butter. Though, it seems that Luxembourg had a process that made its butter fresher. Part of this process was allowing the cattle to grass on hillsides where grass, clover, and herbs grew under apple trees. This flavored the butter and the meat. 
 
However, it seems that having good meat and milk was not enough. In the 19th-Century industrialists mentioned that indigenous cattle existed in Luxembourg. In general, the cows were small-horned and small in stature with a lot of variability. They wanted the cows to be uniform and larger. 
 
In the 1820s, the government encouraged farmers to cross their local short-horn cows with the Birkenfeld breed. Luxembourg also developed a new breed by crossing Limburg and Swiss cattle in 1823. The Limburg-Swiss was very successful. In the end, the southern cattle were replaced with Dutch breeds that were imported from Hesbaye, Condroz, and Glane. 
 
There was also an old landrace called the Ardennes of Luxembourg. This was described by a 19th-Century Luxembourgish journal as “a small rustic animal, well-formed, with a red undercoat, small head, round chest, wide pelvis, having the square udder of the Breton cow…" This was a trifecta purpose cow, for milk, meat, and manure for the fields. At the time, it was considered an indigenous Luxembourgish cow. 

Back to butter

You may have heard about the Botterfra, Butter woman, in the town of Ettlebruck. It was made by the Luxembourgish sculptor Wil Lofy. While you are in Ettelbruck a 5 minute drive will take you to Diekrich. Modern maps will tell you that the space in front of the Diekrich Town Hall is Place Joseph Bech. However, historically it is known as the Bottermaart. A Small plaque is on the neighboring building. 
 
Today when you walk through the dairy section of a grocery store, you may have seen the blocks of butter with golden wrappers. This is the brand Beurre Rose which received Luxembourg’s "Beurre de Marque Nationale Luxembourgeois” designation in 1932.

Historically, their butter was made the traditional way, but today is made by continuous churning. It undergoes regular quality checks by the company’s staff. In addition to these checks, there are 15 more checks performed by outside inspectors every year. 
 
Returning to my bowl of dough. When baking, I know I have to work quickly. The butter must stay cool while mixing. If the weather is hot or the kitchen gets too hot, the dough will get greasy. When baked in an oven, the dough produces flat cookies or less-than-perfect crust.

Making butter in a modern kitchen: 

1) At the grocery store, find fresh buttercream that is 30% fat or more. Also, find a clean jar with a cap that can be closed tightly. Wash the jar and ensure it is clean. 
 
2) Place the buttercream in the plastic jar, seal the jar, and proceed to carefully shake it like a martini. First you will hear the liquid splashing, then it will become silent. At this point it is whipped cream. Don’t stop, keep going! The cream will begin to congeal. 
 
3) When it becomes like a blob or ball you are done. Place the butter in the refrigerator to cool. Remember it is fresh without salt or preservatives, so don’t wait to eat it.